Taipei

Over the weekend, Michelle and I visited Taipei. Besides the incredible food, we meet tons of friendly people and had a blast exploring the city and talking about the differences in the culture and the values between Taipei and Hong Kong.

Firstly I realized that so much of what happens in Hong Kong is abnormal. It is a city of anomalies that has been distorted by consumerism and capitalism.  An example of this right off the bat as we got home from Taiwan was how our taxi driver was radioing calls out to his friends for odd jobs and people to be picked up while he was driving. Usually that's the job of the radio operator (which taxi drivers pay monthly subscriptions to), but I think he was making money on the side, acting as the middleman passing on jobs to his friends on the phone WHILE on the road. He was literally manning a radio and note pad the entire time while navigating through the streets. Hong Kong is extreme. To compare anything to Hong Kong is much of a mute point, but it's a good exercise nonetheless.

Anyways, back to Taiwan.

The first thing we noticed upon arrive to Taiwan was just how friendly the people were. Everyone here was nice, from the taxi drivers to the hotel staff to random people on the street. It is not conceited friendliness where people are obligated to help you. People are genuine about being helpful to the point that it's almost strange. A lady at a restaurant filled up our tea and then also thanked us for letting her fill up the tea. Strange right?

couldn't find a picture of the waitress filling tea, so a picture of a very excited wife about to have XiaoLongBao

On several occasions Michelle and I got lost. We asked a random stranger on the street where the nearest train station was and not only did we get a helpful response, the older gentleman walked us to the station all the while chatting with us. Another time, we got lost heading to hot springs on the outskirts of the city. We stopped to ask for directions to our destination. A man outside his home told us where to go. And later seeing us still wandering as he drove by, picked us up and drove us to the springs.

We also noticed how conscientiously polite the city was. It is a stark difference to Hong Kong, China, and Macau. People make an effort to whisper and speak quietly. Whether or not this is a cultural value that is objectively better is not for me to judge. (I'm not hating on loud cities or countries, ahem, Shenzhen... *cough* China). But what I did notice was that everyone here made an effort to be polite and kind to each other. There was no sprinting to the other side of the metro, no tsk tsking of people walking slower. Everyone got along. People left the courtesy seats on the Metro available for old people and pregnant women. It seemed like it didn't even cross their minds to take the seats because they had been taught from young that these seats were off limits.


The biggest thing I noticed was that people are just happier. I remember reading a few months ago in the South China Morning Post that even though Hong Kong was ranked first by the EIU as the most livable city in terms of economics, its citizens we're among the world's most unhappiest. People work long hours, get paid poorly, and can't afford to have leisure time. The housing prices are through the roof, food is getting more and more expensive, and the average city dweller is too busy trying to make ends meet to care about things like leisure and happiness. Everything is about making a buck and trying to get by in an ultra-competitive society.

Art Warehouse in Ximen

What we really enjoyed in Taipei was a healthy balance between the progressive and a laid-back lifestyle. Taipei is new enough to be modern, accessible, and technologically advanced without the constraints of a market on hyper-drive. A system is in place where everyday people can work but afford to rest, play, and be with their families.

Treelage Cafe

We loved seeing little shops and cafes in Taipei where people would lounge around reading books and hanging out. We passed by this one place, Treelage, that was a cafe on the first floor, a stage area for bands on the 2nd, an art studio on the 3rd, and an art gallery on the 4th. It wasn't huge, but you could tell that everything had been thoughtfully designed and decorated because art is valued in the city.

Knitting/Sewing Classes on the 3rd floor

Maybe it was a long weekend, but after work, people linger together on the sidewalk in front of the store, or often families in front of their house, squatting and roasting some BBQ fare over a charcoal burner as a dinner. People are smiling, laughing, chattering away. The aromas of grilled corn and charred sardines permeate the car-lined streets. No one is in a rush to go anywhere. No one notices the scores of people around or the fumes of traffic passing by. People seemed more content and present. They are a little more human.


On the last day day before we went to the airport, we passed by Mister Donut and bought some mini-donuts to bring back home. As the waitress/clerk/donutress (I don't know what to call her) took our order and carefully packed our donuts into the box, she, folding the flaps on the box, made this adorable animated, "chuuuuuup" sound. What a delightful way to end off our visit to Taipei, again reminding us that we can all take a little time to enjoy ourselves. What if we all did our jobs with the same degree of passion and lightheartedness. I wonder what difference it would make.

"chuuuupp!"

I mentioned to a few people that I think Taiwan is the China that could have been. I don't mean it in a demeaning kind of way to rag on China because I do hope that one day China can get it right- to regain some of her cultural identity and pave a way to a future where her people are afforded the basic freedoms and justices of all humankind. Taiwan, in many ways, is a model for us to emulate. We have much to learn from the people, their etiquette, and their values.

Thanks Taiwan, see you soon.